Tag: Engine
Useful tips for car engine tune ups
by admin on Mar.20, 2011, under Spark Plug Wires
Useful tips for car engine tune ups
Useful tips for car engine tune ups
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Home Page > Automotive > Cars > Useful tips for car engine tune ups
Useful tips for car engine tune ups
Posted: Sep 16, 2010 |Comments: 0
| Views: 103 |
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Regular car tune ups are important to preserve the car’s good running performance. Failure to do this might cost you hundreds of dollars for engine repairs. Regular car tune up also allows you to know the needed replacements on the vehicle’s engine. Try to practice regular car engine tune ups using the useful tips enumerated below.
Start with the distributor cap
Start the tune up service of your car by removing its distributor cap. Familiarize yourself with is position before removing it. This allows you to replace it correctly after the work is done. Check the cap for possible wears.
Once the distributor cap is removed, you are now able to take the rotor out and replace it. The rotor needs to be replaced every 100,000 miles for newer cars. When you replace a rotor with a new one, the distributor cap also needs to be replaced. This is because the rotor and the distribution cap react to produce a spark that the vehicle needs.
You also need to replace the spark plugs and its wires when doing the car’s tune up. This gives the vehicle’s engine a better starting capability. Make sure to check the car’s air filter and replace it with a new one when apparent wears are visible and get a auto repair financing .
Use high quality oils and lubricants
Use high quality oils and lubricants for better engine performance. Instead of using cheaper oils and lubricants, spend an additional amount to buy those that are made by reputable oil companies. Doing these boosts your car engine’s performance.
It is also advisable to change the car’s oil and top it up when doing the tune up. Maintain the engine’s good performance by doing regular change oils every 3000 miles. Change the car’s Oil filter change every second oil change. You can also use coolant additives to bring down the temperature of the car’s engine.
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“Write what you care about and understand. Writers should never try to outguess the marketplace in search of a salable idea; the simple truth is that all good books will eventually find a publisher if the writer tries hard enough, and a central secret to writing a good book is to write on that people like you will enjoy.” – I am Nancy Stewart of IL!
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Related Spark Plug Wires Articles
Routine car maintenance to improve vehicle performance of the three systems – the engine, maintenance – auto repair and maintenance industry
by admin on Mar.03, 2011, under Best Spark Plug
Routine car maintenance to improve vehicle performance of the three systems – the engine, maintenance – auto repair and maintenance industry
Routine car maintenance to improve vehicle performance of the three systems – the engine, maintenance – auto repair and maintenance industry
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Home Page > Business > Six Sigma > Routine car maintenance to improve vehicle performance of the three systems – the engine, maintenance – auto repair and maintenance industry
Routine car maintenance to improve vehicle performance of the three systems – the engine, maintenance – auto repair and maintenance industry
Posted: Sep 27, 2010 |Comments: 0
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Car performance is the efficiency of the car the original full. Purpose is not to destroy and change any of the original car parts and construction carried out under will not be dismantled and was to pieces, it will not affect the vehicle back to the normal maintenance of plant maintenance, to the annual inspection would not be completely different when could not pass the annual inspection. Related Reading: To avoid appearing in dozens of car repair errors Maintenance of her own decisions Advantages and Disadvantages of three-for-oil method
Little attention here only that the software system, there are three major software systems to maximize the efficiency of impact to the car, electricity, fuel, air, and a brief overview of the three soft automotive performance systems, a detailed description of the various parts, for car engine performance, is the engine Power To improve and reduce the Fuel consumption To reduce emissions to extend engine life. The main purpose is to allow access to the engine the combustible gas can be fully, completely mixed, make a strong spark ignition combustion gas mixture. Here we tell you not to change the internal engine parts, car auto power protector Le Chevalier, vehicle maintenance software system, just replace the installation of auxiliary products to upgrade products and to achieve from the gas path, circuit, circuit performance of the three aspects of the engine improve the method. The biggest advantage is not modified and easy disassembly, is through the maintenance of automotive software systems, to improve vehicle best.
1, gas path: to increase per unit time into the volume of air inside the engine cylinder to reduce the engine intake resistance, which is part of the engine air intake improvement targets. The usual practice is to replace the original position of the high flow style, in addition to installation of the wind burst paste, place the box in the intake of energy can be released through their own role, will enter the air-cluster decomposition of a large number of negative ions of air, and the original disordered disorderly movement of air molecules become aligned in a straight line, so that the state of lean burn engine to enable engine speed climbs faster and more powerful.
2, Manifold: gasoline was atomized through the nozzle into the engine cylinder, which determines the degree of atomization of fuel and air mixing it. Therefore, the better fuel atomization, the more favorable and air mixing and combustion. Modified in many ways against the asphalt, the installation of the physical type of fuel is an effective method of turbocharger to increase the gas flow rate of fuel injection is more refined. The latest energy apron with rare elements, heated by the engine, release far infrared ray to set the fuel molecules flowing through the ‘decomposed’ into a single molecule, better atomization of fuel nozzle.
3, the circuit: the circuit is divided into ten systems and now car for safety, intelligent, entertaining more electrical and electronic equipment, cars driving while using a variety of electronic equipment, engine power is (air conditioning, sound , lighting, power windows, etc.) scattered, commonly known as ‘power grab’ likely to cause various Sensor Not allowed to send and receive signals, the maintenance of excellent automotive power system is important, original, through Battery To add power, but the battery’s discharge rate can not keep up, the engine battery power supply stability Spark Plug Ignition efficiency, ignition conductivity and the balance of positive and negative voltages, all of the engine power has a great influence. To do this we can replace the ignition, spark plugs, and installation of vehicle electrical protection devices, Current balance support facilities, to reduce the power load, increase the ignition energy, flame propagation speed faster and reduce the flame propagation distance, so that better combustion . Reduce Coke To reduce emissions.
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Engine Performance Chip
by admin on Feb.13, 2011, under Spark Plug Wires
Engine Performance Chip
Engine Performance Chip
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Home Page > Automotive > Engine Performance Chip
Engine Performance Chip
Posted: Jan 10, 2009 |Comments: 0
| Views: 2,623 |
]]>
What is a Performance Chip? This is the first question arises when we hear the word performance chip. A performance chip is an electronic gadget or chip, which is used to get better fuel mileage and more horsepower from your vehicle.
How the performance chip works? This can answered in a technical way that a performance chip changes the car’s fuel and air mixtures for optimizing the torque and power output. Generally, it is designed for reprogramming the vehicles ECU. Performance chips are used as a replacement of the stock chips which are used for controlling the spark advance and air/fuel ratio of the engines. These chips are used for making an easy tuning and it can be installed in few minutes. And it can be done without doing any wiring and soldering. It is easy to install.
The engine’s performance is depended to a large extent on Engine Performance Chips. It is the most important thing for those who want more power from their vehicle without changing the vehicle engine. Just change this small performance chip. It comes for every model. Performance chip are used mainly for two purposes. These are:
To increase the engine power.
To increase the mileage of the vehicle.
Apart from performance chip, there are some more performance parts which can be found here. These are intakes, exhaust, superchargers, spark plugs and power modules. All these performance parts together increases the performance of your vehicle’s engine by making it more capable, fuel saving, bettor performing and with powerful drive. Apart from all these, performance chip and performance parts also increases the life of your vehicle’s engine. All these performance parts and performance chips for any vehicle and model can be found at cheapest price and of best quality on the website related to performance chip. It is expected that up to 50 horsepower can be increased by using these performance chips and performance parts on majority of vehicles. You can get list of performance chips and performance available on our website of performance chip.
When you will ask about these performance parts and chips in the market then you may find person who are from automobile manufacturers and according to these people performance chips and performance parts are of no use. They say like this because they have their own selfishness. If they will advertise about these performance chips and performance parts then who will buy their expensive big and heavy enhanced engine. If any customer can get more performance and more mileage by spending a little then who will buy these expensive and enhanced engine. In reality, we all know that performance chips and performance parts together have the ability to increase mileage and power and it can be found in very less amount as compare to expensive powerful engines. There is no need of buying these expensive engines. Adding performance chips and performance parts gives a new life to the engine and it works with more power and more fuel efficient. The vehicle will work beyond your imagination. All you have to know is which performance chip and performance parts are good for your vehicle because different performance chips for different make and model.
Installation of these performance chips are very easy, there is no need of wiring and soldering. All you have put this chip right on their place in their slot. These chips are located where processors are found in the car. These performance chips and performance parts are designed by the engineers for your convenience. Here in performance chip website you can get any performance chip and performance parts for any make and model at the lowest price and in best quality.
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Education Online – The Engine Tune Up
by admin on Feb.04, 2011, under Spark Plug Wires
Education Online – The Engine Tune Up
Education Online – The Engine Tune Up
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Education Online – The Engine Tune Up
Posted: Jan 23, 2010 |Comments: 0
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The old dreaded tune-up, this automotive service has changed immensely. The older tune up consisted of several replaceable items. I will mention some of these items in this article and compare the old vs the later model tune up. Read on.
-Distributor type ignition systems require more tuning than distributor-less found on newer vehicles. Distributors have been around for years and continue to show their presence. Distributor type ignition and the related components are the reason the tune up was born. This service helps allow the average, basic mechanic to keep working in the auto repair industry. Again their are several replaceable parts that you will need when performing “distributor type ignition tuning”. These parts may include the distributor, cap, rotor, wires and spark plugs. Use caution, these components can get extremely expensive, especially when there is someone replacing them and they are not bad. A good auto repair technician can perform the service in his sleep and can pin-point whether or not the vehicle needs to be tuned. Note Drive ability problems are not necessarily because you need a tune-up.
-Distributor-less type ignitions need much less maintenance. This makes tuning as easy as changing the spark plugs. I educate people, who frequently state, “my check engine light is on, my car needs a tune-up”. Warning, most of the time a vehicles check engine light takes more to repair than just a tune up for repair. This is why a qualified automotive repair technician is needed. Exercise your right to understand your automobile, one of your most important possessions.
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Automotive Engineering has been serving the Mesa area with excellent service and prices since 1987.
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I am curently enrolled but I am in a hardship and cannot afford the travel expense. can i finish my education online if i have only 136 hrs to complete
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2010 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Options
by admin on Jan.27, 2011, under Spark Plug Wires
2010 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Options
2010 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Options
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Home Page > Shopping > 2010 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Options
2010 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Options
Posted: Apr 12, 2010 |Comments: 0
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During the current model year, 2010 Nissan Pathfinder engine options include V6 and V8 designs. The V6 power plant is available on all models, while the V8 option is only available in models restricted to continuous four-wheel drive mode.
The legendary 4.0-liter V6 power plant from last year remains unchanged. The 24-valve cylinder head supports 266 hp while generating 288 ft-lb of torque. The air induction system utilizes variable-flow to optimize back pressure. Valve timing is controlled by a Continuously Variable Valve Timing Control System (CVTCS). Because of the complementary function of these proven features, 2010 Nissan Pathfinder engine options allow all owners to use either regular or premium gas.
The innovative design of the 4.0L power plant insures reliable and brisk performance. To increase power and reduce emissions, all 4.0L models include platinum-tipped spark plugs that reduce fouling and increase performance. An electronic drive-by-wire throttle linkage insures maximum acceleration remains available.
The 5.6-liter V8 option produces 310 hp while generating 388 ft-lb of torque. Four vales per cylinder are synchronized by double-overhead camshafts. In addition, the V8 also increases performance and reduces emissions using a variable intake system, CVTCS and premium spark plugs.
The 2WD-4WD model and the full-time 4WD model are both available with two different transmissions. A 5-speed automatic transmission is standard. Owners may alternatively choose a 5-speed automatic transmission that includes a manual operation mode.
The 2010 Pathfinder incorporates few obvious exterior updates. The distinctive styling characteristics of this SUV remain the same. Rear-door handles are mounted higher than front-door handles in a vertical position. According to the factory, this limits access by small children.
The familiar exterior profile is rugged yet practical. Most shoppers believe the Pathfinder is sufficiently stylish without requiring a complete cosmetic overhaul. Nevertheless, rumors abound regarding future changes despite sustained popularity.
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Ronnie Tanner is a contributing writer at SWEngines.com. He writes about Nissan Pathfinder Engine and other industry specific topics.
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Does nissan pathfinder have a timing belt ?
How many people can fit in a nissan pathfinder ?
Nissan pulsar QG13 starts but when press the speed lever no change(ie doesn’t picks the speed) and there is a “check engine light” displayed
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Five Most Essential Car Engine Maintenance Tips
by admin on Jan.16, 2011, under Car Spark Plugs
Five Most Essential Car Engine Maintenance Tips
Five Most Essential Car Engine Maintenance Tips
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Home Page > Automotive > Cars > Five Most Essential Car Engine Maintenance Tips
Five Most Essential Car Engine Maintenance Tips
Posted: Nov 25, 2010 |Comments: 0
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As we all know, the engine falls as important to a car as the heart to a human body. Thus, its being fine tuned is not only important for trouble free performance but also the longevity of a car. Still, the car engine maintenance is one of the most neglected aspects of the overall maintenance of a car. Here are some essential car engine maintenance tips by following which you can not only keep the performance of the engine up to the mark but can also keep your pocket safe from heavy engine repair bills.
1)Regular Oil Change: – It is the most important and a must follow engine maintenance tip. One should strictly follow the oil change schedule provided by the company in order to keep the lubrication level up to the mark in the engine components. The engine oil catches metal particles and dirt with the time and if not changed at right time, it can affect the engine life very badly.
2)Avoid rough driving: – One should avoid driving vehicle roughly and should adopt engine friendly driving habits like using proper speed-gear combination and avoid overheating of the engine.
3)Maintaining Fluid Level: – The cooling system maintains the engine temperature and keeps it safe from overheating. Thus, maintaining the fluid level in the cooling system is very important and should be checked / refilled on a regular basis.
4)Listen to your car: – Keep a close eye on the performance of every component and scrutinize it carefully as soon as you hear any unusual sound coming out from any component. Even a faulty spark plug or a raddled air filter can prove harmful for over all engine unit, thus these components should be repaired / replaced as soon as you find a problem in any one of them.
5)Regular Service:- One should strictly follow the service schedule recommended by the company. The service includes checking / repairing / cleaning / replacing of many essential components of the engine system. Thus, it falls highly essential for the life and performance of the engine, in a longer run.
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RECIPROCATING ENGINE OVERHAUL (M-16)
by admin on Jan.11, 2011, under Spark Plug Wires
RECIPROCATING ENGINE OVERHAUL (M-16)
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RECIPROCATING ENGINE OVERHAUL (M-16)
Posted: Aug 08, 2010 |Comments: 0
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RECIPROCATING ENGINE OVERHAUL (M-16)
for more >http://worldaviation0.blogspot.com/2010/07/reciprocating-engine-overhaul.html
Tools and equipment
An engine overhaul does require some special tools. These tools are used for measuring clearances as well as special assembly or disassembly procedures unique to the engine.
Here’s a list of tools that you might need. The list will vary for different types of engines, and this list is for the Continental O-470. For tools that are unique to the engine, you should consult the engine overhaul manual. Note that the overhaul manual will often list many special and highly expensive tools that the factory uses but that you don’t need to complete an overhaul.
If you’re working with a mechanic, chances are the mechanic already has these tools and through negotiation you can use your mechanic’s tools. Make sure you respect your mechanic’s tools.
As somebody who does a lot of maintenance,
Hand Tools
General hand tools: You’ll need the following (all in fractional inch sizes – no metric). I recommend the high-quality full polish Craftsman or Snap-On tools.
• Short-pattern “stubby” box-end wrench set, 1/4″ to 3/4″
• Long-pattern box-end wrench set, up to 1″ size
• 60 degree double-offset box-end short-pattern wrench set (Snap-On makes an excellent set, and they’re sometimes necessary for tight fits).
• X-Acto knife, angle blades and flat blades for gasket scraping.
• Cotter key puller tool
• Duckbill and needlenose pliers
• Small set of snips
• Crescent F-wrench with 2″ capacity
• 1/4″ drive 12 pt shallow socket set and drivers, with extension set
• 3/8″ drive 12 pt shallow socket set and drivers, with extension set
• Assorted screwdrivers
• Allen key set
• Brass hammer
• Soft mallet
• Cleaning brushes
• Drifts of various sizes to help with assembly
You might also find yourself in need of deep sockets and/or universal drive sockets, depending on the engine.
You must have a good, calibrated, torque wrench for any overhaul. I prefer the “clicker” type of torque wrench where you pre-set a torque value and then turn until the wrench “clicks” off at that specified value. The clicker types are more expensive than the beam type wrenches where you read the torque off of a scale attached to the wrench. Both work equally well assuming the wrench has been calibrated.
You’ll typically want a small and a large wrench for convenience. A small wrench is best for the smaller jobs and tight clearances, and it is lighter. A large wrench is handy for leverage when doing the larger torque values like through-studs. Your wrenches should have a range of about 50 inch-lbs up to about 800 inch-lbs.
Specialty Tools
There are a number of specialty tools that are required for any given aviation engine. Many of these tools have use in regular maintenance outside of overhauls, so they’re handy to have around all the time.
Aviation spark plug socket. You need a special socket for aviation plugs. Make sure you have adapters for your torque wrench’s drive size.
Cylinder base wrench set. These wrenches are strangely bent to allow you to get to the cylinder base nuts when the cylinders are installed on the engine. There are different sizes required for different engines so make sure you check sizes.
Piston Ring Compressor. I recommend the wrinkle-band type. Make sure you get one large enough for your engine. Many automotive compressors are not large enough for aircraft pistons.
Timing disk and propeller dome adapter, and magneto timing box. To set timing on the engine after reassembly.
Pushrod Tube Spring Compressor. Necessary when installing Continental engine pushrod housings.
Valve spring compressor. If you’re doing top end work, you should get this specialty compressor tool.
Bearing puller. Might be necessary for disassembling accessory drives.
Engine crane. Get a portable hydraulic shop crane from your local auto parts store. Usually these come in a 2 ton capacity and can often by found with folding legs to make storage easier.
Engine stand. Check Trade-A-Plane for engine stand ads. Do not attempt an overhaul without a stand. You should also get the rolling casters so that you can move the engine around during the overhaul.
Safety wire twister pliers. I recommend getting a good set of twisters, not a cheapo import. Robinson and Milbar are the best. I particularly recommend the Milbar Tigerwave 6″ and 9″ twisters.
Measuring tools. You’re generally going to need:
Outside Micrometers. A good mix is 0-1″ and 1-2″ fixed, and a 0-6″ interchangable anvil set
Snap-gauges, buy a set up to about 6 inches.
Bore gauge, up to 6″.
I prefer direct digital-reading equipment to minimize confusion, but that costs more than the old style analog gauges and both work equally well. Mitutoyu Digimatic or Starrett are good brands. McMaster-Carr is a good supplier.
Documentation
You will absolutely need a copy of the engine overhaul manual and the parts manual. The best source for these is the factory.
You should also have a copy of the latest service bulletins for the engine, also available from the factory.
While you are removing your engine and disassembling it, make sure you document the existing installation. I recommend a decent digital camera for convenience. Having the photos provides for a record both during reassembly and useful documentation of the engine’s previous condition and its overhauled state that you should include with the engine records.
Supplies
Get a bunch of plastic ziplock bags and 3×5 index cards to bag and tag parts as you remove them. I buy the sandwich size and the 1 gallon freezer-bag size.
Aero grade Hylomar. Gasket and parting seam sealant. Great stuff.
Safety wire. You’ll need 0.020, 0.032, and 0.041″ stainless steel safety wire.
Fuellube. An all-purpose lubricant useful when assembling fittings.
Parker O-Lube. For lubricating O-rings during assembly.
Assembly lube. I use Hyper-Lube Assembly Lube right out of the bottle (available at auto parts stores). You can also use fresh 50 weight oil.
Specialty lubes. Certain parts may require specialty lubes during assembly. Consult your overhaul manual.
Silicon Baffle seal material. You’ll need several feet of baffle seat material. I recommend the silicon fiber-reinforced variety. You’ll probably also need attachment rivets and backing washers.
Miscellaneous Hardware. You should decide whether you’re going to replace small hardware items such as screws, nuts, washers, and bolts. If so, you will need to get replacements.
Engine paint. I recommend Randolph engine enamels. Make sure you also buy some solvent/reducer for spray dilution and cleanup. If you’re looking for a brighter, non-stock engine color (e.g. red or blue to match your airplane) then I recommend Bill Hirsch engine paint, which is good stuff but doesn’t come in “aircraft” colors. The Hirsch paints thin with Xylene.
Wicks or Aircraft Spruce are good suppliers for the miscellaneous stuff.
Installation and Test Run
You’ll need a pre-oiling rig to pre-oil the engine before it is run for the first time. This can be as simple as a pressure tank with two taps and valves. You fill the tank with oil, attach an outflow hose to one tap and connect the hose to the engine. You connect compressed air to the other tap to pressurize the tank and force the oil into the engine oil galleries and bearings.
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Detailed G60 Engine Guide
by admin on Jan.02, 2011, under Best Spark Plug
Detailed G60 Engine Guide
Detailed G60 Engine Guide
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Home Page > Automotive > Cars > Detailed G60 Engine Guide
Detailed G60 Engine Guide
Posted: Aug 11, 2010 |Comments: 0
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On the plus side, the engine is pretty much bullet-proof, and produces bucket loads of torque as well as being easily tuneable with some simple bolt on mods yielding some reliable bhp hikes. It is also a relatively simple four cylinder which means that most home mechanics should be able to do most jobs themselves.
Air Filter & Intake
The air filter determines what gets into your charger and what doesn’t. Ideally lots of air gets in and dirt stays out. It is essential that you never run a G60 with any kind of foam air filter. These are fine for normally aspirated engines but they do not filter as well as a paper or cotton gauze filter does. They allow grit into the charger that mixes with the oil in the charger to form a grinding paste that accelerates charger wear. The standard paper filters are fine but if you want a bit more grunt then use a cotton gauze filter (£30) in the standard airbox and remove the front intake trumpet from the airbox as well as drilling it out (see our airbox modding guide). This will allow more air into the charger and give a slightly louder induction roar.
If you want to go one stage further then a cotton gauze cone style induction kit will help but these are a bit more pricey (£150). These replace the airbox with a large cone shaped filter and improve breathing as well as giving a wicked induction roar. Ensure that you get one with a heat-shield to prevent the filter sucking hot air from the engine bay. Some people find the induction kits a bit loud so opt for retaining the stock airbox. You are unlikely to notice any performance difference between the cone filter and an aftermarket filter in a modded airbox.
Carbon canister removal
Underneath the airbox is the activated charcoal filter (or carbon canister). This neutralises petrol vapour from the fuel tank and feeds it into the engine under load. The charcoal is then regenerated by passing fresh air over it. After 100k or so the CC does very little and can be removed. This leaves a nice big hole under the airbox/induction kit and you can then run a bit of cold air ducting up through the hole to feed the intake system. If you retain the std airbox you need to cut a hole out of the bottom of it that matches the hole where the carbon canister used to sit. On the Corrado the cold air ducting can be run down to the off side brake cooling duct. You will find the external air temp sender attached to this brake cooling duct (on a Corrado) and a few people have been known to move this up to the intake area to monitor intake temperature.
Charger Servicing
The G-Charger runs with very tight tolerances and the bearings, oil seals and apex seals only have a finite life.
As a result the chargers need rebuilding on a regular basis depending on the state of tune they are in. As a rough guide the following intervals should be adhered to:
Std pulley every 45,000 miles
68mm pulley every 30,000 miles
65mm pulley every 20,000 miles
In addition to regular rebuilds the small drive belt that links the main shaft to the auxiliary shaft should be changed annually. As std these are 6mm wide but should be replaced with an 11mm one (£8.50) as available from suppliers such as G-Werks.
Check out our G60 rebuild guide to get an idea of what is involved. A standard rebuild is about £400 rising to £500 if you have some mods done at the same time.
Whilst the charger is apart it is worth considering having the upper chambers and exhaust ports flowed and enlarged to help the charger flow more air. You should check your charger on a regular basis to determine how healthy it is. As the unit wears the apex seals start to leak and so the charger produces less boost. The oil seals also start to go and the charger then begins to leak oil both externally and into the intake pipework.
On a regular basis you should remove the intake pipe and check the inside of the charger top chamber for oil as well as the soft rubber boost pipe between the charger and the intercooler. You can also remove the intake air temp sensor from the plastic pipe between the throttle body and intercooler and check this for oil. A fine misting of oil is acceptable but a large quantity of oil indicates that the charger needs attention. The boost levels can also be checked using a boost gauge function on the MFA (Corrado only). Use the following procedure:
Start engineMove the MFA selector to “2″Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding)Stop engineStart engineRelease the MFA end button.Press the MFA End button one time.
You should now see 550-750 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 750 is probably not right (a vacuum leak possibly?). Much less than 550 is probably too much timing advance. Run the car to the redline in 3rd and 4th gears noting the highest readings you get
Running a standard 78mm pulley you should see 11psi if the charger is in good nick but a charger with a smaller pulley should make more than 11.6
400 – 17.8600 – 11.9800 – 5.91000 0 (Atmospheric pressure, charger is bypassed?)1200 2.9 psi (You have a major boost leak)1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is in very poor condition)1600 8.7 psi (Your charger would benefit from new apex strips)1800 11.6 psi (Good for stock pulley, needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley)2000 14.5 psi (Good for 68mm pulley on stock charger)2200 17.4 psi (Good for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger)
Any more than this and you must ensure that the fuelling is seriously up to scratch At this point you are into the realms of different injectors, aftermarket engine management and so forth.
If you suspect a boost leak then examine all the intake pipe work very closely for damage. The soft rubber hoses leading to and from the intercooler are prone to splitting and the join between the two halves of the charger baffle box is also a problem area (silicon sealant or an RSR outlet should sort this out!).
Oil
Oil selection and condition is very important to the G60 engine, particularly to the charger. The G-Lader bearings are lubricated by engine oil fed in along a braided line and fed back to the sump via another line. Due to the tight tolerances within the charger the oil needs to be as thin as possible, for this reason the engine should not be driven hard until the oil is up to temperature and thus at the correct viscosity.
As most G60’s are cracking on for 100k we would not recommend using something as thin as Mobil 1 as this is likely weep out of every single gasket. A good compromise is a 10W40 oil, and ideally a fully synthetic one. Bearing in mind that oil changes are cheap and easy we would recommend an oil and filter change every 6,000miles or 12 months whichever is sooner. Obviously if you have had the engine rebuilt recently then go with fully synthetic 0/5W40 BUT remember that you must NOT run a rebuilt/new engine on thin fully synthetic oil until it has done a good 10k otherwise the oil is thin enough to get forced past the rings thus glazing the bores up (rebuild time!).
Another oil related weak-point of the G60 engine is the oil feed line for the charger. Although braided, the core is just a small diameter rubber pipe which perishes with age and ultimately blocks. This obviously starves the charger of oil and kills it. If you still have the original feed line on your car then it is likely to be tired and should be replaced. G-Werks and Pitstop Developments can sell you a vastly improved line with a Teflon composite core and more durable over-braid as well as high quality ends. These are about £20 but are ‘fit and forget’ items. The oil return line rarely needs attention as it is a larger diameter, but it is still worth checking it for signs of damage.
Superchargers generate a lot of heat and if you own a std Corrado G60 then you are likely to see oil temperatures up to 130 degrees. This increases under-bonnet temperatures which does nothing for the ancillaries as well as increasing charge temperature. For every 10 degrees that you can reduce the charge temp by you will see approx 3% increase in power. It is therefore well worth fitting an aftermarket oil cooler (£120).
These fit very neatly below the charger and could knock as much as 30 degrees off the oil temp. They fit via a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate that sits between the stock water/oil heat exchanger and the oil filter. These heat exchangers are prone to leaks (leading to water in your oil) and so people often remove them when fitting a stand alone cooler. If you do not remove them then you will need to use Mk2 GTi oil filters as opposed to G60 ones in future as the G60 ones have a nut on them that fouls the front cross-member when a sandwich plate is in place. Internally there is no difference between the filters.
General Running
The ECU takes information from a number of sensors in order to apply the fuel and timing settings to the engine. If any of these sensors are not working properly then the ECU will get an incorrect signal and the engine will not run properly. It is possible to check a number of these sensors and connections to help diagnose any running problems you may be experiencing.
ECU relays
The ECU relays on these cars are notorious for failing and although not an expensive failure it is one that will leave you stranded. It is prudent to obtain a brand new replacement relay from VW (approx £10) and to keep it in your glovebox. You want VW part number 165906381 and it lives in position No. 3 on the relay board (assuming No. 1 is top left). It will have a No. 30 or 32 on top of it. If it is black and made in Malaysia or the Philippines then it falls into the unreliable category. VW uprated these and new ones come in a light grey case.
MAP Sensor
The ECU contains a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure), which it uses to determine engine load. This is fed by a black vacuum hose running from the manifold to the ECU. It is essential that this hose is in good shape, a lot of G60 running issues are down to this hose. Examine it for wear and if in doubt replace it as it is a cheap part. Be warned however, that it must be exactly 1m long so don’t go trimming the end off and reattaching it to the ECU!
Water Temp Sensor
There are two water temp sensors that sit on top of the casting that joins the rad top hose to the front of the block. The blue one provides a signal to the ECU whilst the black one is the sender for the dashboard gauge. With the engine at operating temperature disconnect the plug to the blue one. You should hear the engine note change, this indicates that the sensor is working. If it does not change, then the sensor needs replacing (about £5 from VW).
Fuel rail
The ECU must detect 12v across the fuel rail for it to operate properly. If the voltage drops below this then the ECU dumps extra fuel at the top of the rev range to prevent the engine from running lean. This will not affect performance in a massive way but won’t do your fuel economy any favours. With the engine running check the voltage using a multimeter. If it is above 12v switch all the electrics on (lights, fan, indicators, demister, stereo) and check again. If the voltage has now dropped below 12v then the alternator may well be getting a bit tired. VW charge about £100 for alternator (exchange), which, is cheaper that we could find them elsewhere, although if you can live without the car for a few days most auto electricians can overhaul them for a lot less.
Knock Sensor
This is basically a microphone that bolts to the block and detects pinking by listening for sounds waves of a specific frequency. When the knock sensor detects pinking the ECU is then able to retard the ignition timing accordingly. The signal is passed from the sensor to the loom via a shielded cable. It is essential that this cable is in excellent condition, if there are any nicks or tears in the cable then the knock sensor should be replaced (£45, VW only part). It is simple to replace and merely plugs into the loom at one end (the plug can be found near the fan and distributor) and bolts onto the block at the other. It must be torqued up to 15ft/lbs, any more or less and it will be under or over sensitive.
Hall Senders
As with most other distributor-based VW ignition systems the Hall senders are prone to failure. It lives in the distributor and uses a magnet to determine the position of the distributor before feeding a signal back to the ECU. Sadly the hall senders are not worth servicing (very fiddly and not that cheap) and so it is a new distributor job. Your dealership is usually the best source for a replacement and they even come with a new arm and cap!
The Hall sender usually announces its imminent failure with some very rough running (random misfires) interspersed with backfires and subsequently (and very soon after) the engine dies. The symptoms are usually worse when the engine is hot. VW used a number of very slightly different distributors on the same car but ultimately you want part number 037905237X which replaced 3 other similar part numbers.
Spark Plugs
The spark plugs are meant to last about 40k but it is worth checking them for condition. They should only be replaced with the appropriate platinum tipped Bosch plugs. For a standard or modestly tuned G60 you want W6DPO plugs and for a highly tuned lump use W5DPO (as fitted to the G40) as they run slightly cooler than the 6s.
Intercooler
As mentioned earlier any reduction in charge temperature leads to an increase in power [due to cooler air being denser and more oxygen rich]. Also, the cooler the charge the less pinking will occur allowing the ECU to run more timing advance. The G60 supercharged engine comes complete with an intercooler (i.e. an air to air heat exchanger) to cool ‘charged’ air but the format of this unit varies from model to model.
The Corrado intercooler is a very small unit which is of limited effectiveness. If you can’t afford to upgrade, it is worth removing it and cleaning it very thoroughly as this will improve its efficiency. It draws air from behind the bumper and lives just in front of the nearside wheel arch. The internals are likely to be coated with a good misting of oil and the outside covered in road kill (bugs and grime). It should be filled with a decent detergent (Persil or de-greaser etc) and allowed to soak before being thoroughly flushed. If you have the patience it is also worth carefully straightening the cooling fins with a flat blade screwdriver as well as removing any gunk from the outside of the unit.
If you can afford it (£500) then the intercooler from a Golf G60 is a direct swap onto the Corrado. It is much bigger and sits in front of the rad. You will need all the golf pipework as well but it will make a massive difference. Stay clear of coolers from Golfs with air con as these sit on top of the engine and draw hot air from around the engine making them even more useless than the standard Corrado unit. Aftermarket companies will also be able to make bespoke coolers and supply all the relevant pipework and these are likely to be a bit cheaper but tend to require some cutting to make them fit to the car.
Chargecooler
An alternative to a larger intercooler is to fit a charge cooler (£400-500). A charge cooler is a water to air heat exchanger and size for size is more efficient than an intercooler. The main part of a chargecooler can sit pretty much anywhere whereas an intercooler must be mounted in the air stream. This makes chargecoolers easier to package in the engine bay and popular for conversions such as Mk1 G60s. The charge cooler then requires a water resevoir and a small radiator to cool the water heated by the charged air as well as plumbing and a pump to link the two.
Although efficient, it is obviously a more complicated solution so if you have the space I would go for an intercooler. The final charge cooling option which can be run in conjunction with an IC or CC is water injection (£250 – £500). This system sprays a fine mist of water into the airstream before is goes into the engine thus cooling it. The spray obviously needs to be fitted before any inlet air temp sensors. Such a system requires a pump and reservoir but can be fitted very discretely. It usually operates from a throttle switch to only activate at full throttle otherwise the reservoir would continually need refilling. Generally such a system is used in conjunction with an IC or CC as is used on highly tuned cars to prevent pinking under full load/boost.
G60 Idle Stabilisation Valve [ISV]
Idle Valve – The G60 uses an electronically controlled idle valve that bypasses the closed throttle to feed a controlled amount of air into the engine and sustain an idle. These often become sticky and work erratically (causing a hunting idle) or cease working at all. In most cases that can be fixed with a quick clean. Remove them from the car and soak in petrol or carb/injector cleaner before rinsing, drying and refitting. Check also the pipes to and from the valve for air leaks as these can also cause idle problems.
The idle valve also acts as a boost limiting system. When boost reaches a certain level the ECU sends a signal to the valve to open a solenoid that bleeds excess boost out of the system and into the boost-return pipework. Some people have fitted check valves to prevent this excess boost being bled off. These should probably be removed as not only does the ECU open the valve to bleed the excess boost off but it stops retarding the timing. If you retain this extra boost the timing will be too far advanced as the check valve makes no adjustment to the timing for the extra boost and thus the engine is likely to pink.
Less specific to the G60 but worth highlighting nonetheless is the cam belt tensioner. These often seize up on older high-mileage cars causing premature wear and thus failure of the belt. They only cost £10 so if it looks tired or squeals then change it. It should always be changed with the cam belt as a matter of course but this does not always get done. Remember that the belt should be tensioned so that you can twist the longest unsupported run of the belt through 90 degrees…..no more….and no less!
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Turn to the San Pedro Car Repair Pros When the Check Engine Light Turns On
by admin on Dec.31, 2010, under Car Spark Plugs
Turn to the San Pedro Car Repair Pros When the Check Engine Light Turns On
Turn to the San Pedro Car Repair Pros When the Check Engine Light Turns On
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Home Page > Automotive > Turn to the San Pedro Car Repair Pros When the Check Engine Light Turns On
Turn to the San Pedro Car Repair Pros When the Check Engine Light Turns On
Posted: Dec 05, 2009 |Comments: 0
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What do you do when your Check Engine light turns on? Ignore it and hope it goes away? Try to find and fix the problem yourself, or do you take your vehicle to a San Pedro car repair and service center?
Common Causes of a Check Engine Light
We’ve all seen the Check Engine light and other warning lights on the instrument panel of our cars illuminate at one time or another, but most of us don’t know what causes them to turn on in the first place.
Your car has many different sensors that continuously monitor all critical vehicle systems. When a failure is sensed in any of these systems, a Check Engine light comes on to alert you of the problem. Some of the common causes of a Check Engine light:
The gas cap is not tightened properly A problem with the emission system, such as a malfunctioning catalytic converter or clogged exhaust Old spark plugs that cause the engine to misfire Faulty sensors, such as anti-lock brake sensors Blown fuses Low oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, or anti-freeze Defective alternator Faulty battery
All of the reasons that can cause a Check Engine light to come on are too numerous to list. So, what do you need to know?
Obey Check Engine Light “Traffic Signals”
Treat your Check Engine light and other warning lights in your car like traffic signals. Follow these Check Engine light tips to know when you need professional automotive assistance from the San Pedro car repair pros:
Solid Yellow Light: Proceed with caution. This type of Check Engine light is probably not an emergency, especially if it seems like the engine is running smoothly. Try shutting down the engine and restarting it a few times to see if the Check Engine light goes out. It could be something as simple as a sensor taking too long to respond due to cold temperatures. If the Check Engine light stays on, take your vehicle to the San Pedro car repair specialists for a Check Engine light “check-up.” Blinking Yellow Light: Attend to the problem soon. This type of Check Engine light usually means your engine is misfiring, which can irreparably damage the very costly catalytic converter. Drive cautiously and make an appointment with your San Pedro car repair center as soon as possible. This early warning sign can save you from expensive repairs. Red Light: Stop driving as soon as possible. Continuing to drive with this type of Check Engine light on can cause severe damage to your engine. A red Check Engine light is typically the result of low fluids or problems with the electrical system. Of course, the best thing to do is to let the leading San Pedro car repair center investigate the problem with our state-of-the-art diagnostic tools. Our trained San Pedro diagnostics technicians will make the necessary repairs so your vehicle is safe to drive.
Don’t Ignore a Check Engine Light!
Depending on the type of problem, a sensor that causes a Check Engine light to come on can cause your vehicle to begin operating on a predetermined emergency program that can result in poor engine performance, decreased mileage, and increased emissions. By ignoring a Check Engine light, you risk doing permanent damage to your vehicle that could have been prevented if our San Pedro diagnostics and car repair experts could have inspected and fixed the problem at the first sign of trouble.
But you don’t have to wait until the Check Engine light illuminates! Get your car serviced by the San Pedro car repair professionals with regularly scheduled visits to help you avoid surprises. Call 310.831.2888 or make an appointment online at www.parkplazaautomotive.com.
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Mitch Harmatz -
About the Author:
Mitch Harmatz has owned and operated Plaza Automotive Center since 2001. Plaza Automotive Center’s comprehensive San Pedro auto repair and service includes tune-up and engine services, tire service, air conditioning service, brake service, diagnostic service, cooling system, charging system, and wheel alignment.
Call 310.831.2888 today to schedule your San Pedro car service. Visit us online at http://www.parkplazaautomotive.com.
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Northstar engine series – pneumatic cylinders – Auto Doors
by admin on Dec.29, 2010, under Best Spark Plug
Northstar engine series – pneumatic cylinders – Auto Doors
Northstar engine series – pneumatic cylinders – Auto Doors
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Home Page > Business > Home Business > Northstar engine series – pneumatic cylinders – Auto Doors
Northstar engine series – pneumatic cylinders – Auto Doors
Posted: Aug 19, 2010 |Comments: 0
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Development and features
The Northstar’s design was initiated as a response to the advanced dual overhead cam V8 engines introduced by European and Japanese competitors of Cadillac in the late 1980s. At that time, Cadillac was using the aluminum HT Overhead Valve (OHV) V8 which had been pushed hastily into production after the failure of the V8-6-4 of 1981.
Cadillac was developing new models like the Allant and updated Eldorado and Seville STS which they hoped would compete against the best from BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Lexus, and Infiniti. They developed a laundry list of items that must be included in these new models, including sophisticated steering, braking, and suspension technologies, which became known as the Northstar System. One key element was a high-tech V8 engine with all of the features and performance of the competitors’ offerings.
The “Northstar” V8, as it was then known, was an evolution of the Lotus-designed Chevrolet LT5 all-aluminum DOHC 32-valve V8 used in the Corvette ZR-1. Archrival Ford Motor Company was developing a similar engine at that time as well, and Ford’s Modular engine would precede the Northstar into production with its introduction on the 1991 Lincoln Town Car. Both continue in production at 4.6 L of displacement.
Capable of producing 300 hp (224 kW) out of its 4565 cc displacement, the Northstar featured a cast aluminum 90 V8 block with 102 mm (4 in) bore spacing split into unitary upper and lower halves. The lower crankcase assembly supported the crankshaft without conventional main bearing caps. An oil manifold plate with an integrated silicon gasket forms the oil gallery under this. A typical oil change used 7.58 quarts of oil.
Cast-iron cylinder liners were specified and the forged aluminum pistons included valve clearance. Northstar is an interference engine, with bronze pin bushings and free-floating piston pins used.
Cast aluminum cylinder heads were used featuring 4 valves per cylinder. The heads used dual overhead cams which are driven through the “maintenance-free” cam-drive chain case. The cams act directly on hydraulic lifters on the ends of the valves and are fed with a lubrication passage drilled through the cylinder head lengthwise. The intake valves are inclined at 25, while the exhaust valves are canted to 7 with center-mounted platinum-tipped spark plugs. The cam covers are magnesium for light weight.
Eight thermoplastic tubes were used in the induction system, leading to sequential fuel injection. The engine used a distributorless ignition system with a waste spark setup. The PCM controls spark and fuel injection timing as well as the shift points for the new 4T80-E transmission.
One notable feature, advertised at the time, was the “limp home” fail-safe mode which allowed the engine to continue running for a limited time without any coolant. Supplying fuel to only one cylinder bank in turn, the engine would “air cool” the inactive bank. This technique, combined with its all-aluminum construction and large oil capacity, allows the engine to maintain safe temperatures, allowing a Northstar-equipped car to be driven with no coolant for about 100 mi (161 km) without damage.
Another unusual feature of some Northstar-equipped cars is a liquid-cooled alternator used on Cadillac’s Seville, DeVille, and Eldorado. The liquid-cooling helped prolong the life of the alternator in these electronic-laden models, though GM reverted to a traditional air-cooled setup for 2001 to eliminate potential leak points and extraneous tubing.
All engines of this family share the same Northstar bellhousing pattern.
Later developments included direct coil-on-plug ignition, and variable valve timing, which can vary intake by up to 40 and the exhaust by up to 50. VVT was devised for the longitudinal LH2 version, and has not, to date, been used on the transverse front wheel drive engines due to packaging considerations. Northstar series
The engine was introduced in mid-1992 in the 1993 Cadillac Allant and continues to be used in most Cadillac models. The original Northstar Allant also introduced the Northstar System which included traction control, adaptive suspension, and antilock brakes. Early Northstar required premium grade gasoline to run safely.
The Northstar was sold exclusively by Cadillac for over a decade before being introduced in the 2004 Pontiac Bonneville and 2006 Buick Lucerne. However, the 4.0L L47 V8 variant was used in the Oldsmobile Aurora and the 3.5L LX5 V6 in the Oldsmobile Intrigue. The engine received a forged steel crankshaft in October 2003. Cadillac had planned to introduce a V12 Northstar this decade, likely for use in the Escalade, but economics and new CAFE standards have killed this idea.
Most Northstar engines produce 275 hp (205 kW) to 315 hp (235 kW). The engines were revised for 2000 with coil-on-plug ignition and roller follower valvegear for improved fuel economy and reduced emissions. Though power output did not change, this update eliminated the need for premium fuel.
All but the supercharged Northstar displace 4.6 L (279 cu in) with a 93 mm (3.7 in) bore and 84 mm (3.3 in) stroke. For better head gasket sealing between cylinders, the supercharged version is de-bored to 91 mm (3.6 in) for a total displacement of 4.4 L (266 cu in) . The block is said[who?] to be capable of expansion up to 5.4 L, though no such engine has been produced.
The Northstar was on the Ward’s 10 Best Engines list for 1995, 1996, and 1997.
The Northstar System was Cadillac’s trademarked name for a package of automobile performance features. Introduced in mid 1992 on the 1993 Cadillac Allant and later on that year’s Seville and Eldorado, the Northstar name continues in use to this day.
The Northstar System included the following components:
L37 high-output 300 hp (224 kW) and 295 ftlbf (400 Nm)
LD8 high-torque 275 hp (205 kW) and 300 ftlbf (407 Nm)
GM 4T80-E 4-speed automatic transmission
Road Sensing Suspension
RSS was available in both standard and CV-RSS (continuously-variable) systems. It monitored damping rates of the shock absorbers every 15 milliseconds, selecting between two settings.
4-wheel disc brakes with Bosch antilock brakes
Magnasteer speed-variable power steering
Magnasteer combines conventional hydraulic power steering and magnetized “doughnuts” mounted around the output shaft, which stiffen the steering as vehicle speed increases.
The latest versions of the Northstar engine include the 4.6L 320 hp (239 kW) and 315 lbft (427 Nm) LH2 which began in 2004, and supercharged 4.4L 469 hp (350 kW) LC3 created for the STS-V which are detailed below.
General Motors employed a continuously variable system for the Cadillac Northstar System, VVT (Variable Valve Timing). The Northstar VVT provides a continuously variable system throughout the RPM range, increasing fuel economy. GM engines use the double overhead cam, varying both intake and exhaust for better performance. L37
The L37 (VIN “9″) was the original Northstar. It is tuned for responsiveness and power, while the later LD8 is designed for more sedate use. The L37 code has been used on all high-output transverse Northstars, even as the exact engine specifications evolved. Its displacement is 4600cc flat the compression ratio for the L37 is 10:1, shared with the LD8.
The original L37 was specified at 290 hp (216 kW), but 1993 production examples were rated at 295 hp (220 kW). The engine topped out at 300 hp (224 kW) from 1996 through 2004 on the STS, DTS and ETC models, making these some of the most powerful domestic front wheel drive cars ever built, the most powerful title still belonging to the 1970 Cadillac Eldorado 500 cu in (8.2 L) with 400 hp (298 kW) (although the latter’s rating is in the older SAE gross horsepower system, figured without accessories or muffler, where the current engine outputs are as-installed, net ratings). For 2005 the high output Northstar became Northstar NHP, and was downrated to 290 horsepower (220 kW) under the new SAE certified horsepower rating system. In 2006, the updated DTS “Performance Package” model got a slight bump to 292 hp (218 kW). Vehicles using the L37 include:
Year
Model
Power
Torque
1993
Cadillac Allant
295 hp (220 kW) @ 5600 rpm
290 lbft (393 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
1993-1994
Cadillac Eldorado ETC
295 hp (220 kW) @ 5600 rpm
290 lbft (393 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
19952002
Cadillac Eldorado ETC
300 hp (224 kW) @ 6000 rpm
295 lbft (400 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
1993
Cadillac Seville STS
295 hp (220 kW) @ 5600 rpm
290 lbft (393 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
19942004
Cadillac Seville STS
300 hp (224 kW) @ 6000 rpm
295 lbft (400 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
19962004
Cadillac DeVille Concours/DTS
300 hp (224 kW) @ 6000 rpm
295 lbft (400 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
2005
Cadillac DeVille DTS
290 hp (216 kW) @ 5600 rpm
285 lbft (386 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
2006resent
Cadillac DTS Performance
292 hp (218 kW) @ 6300 rpm
288 lbft (390 Nm) @ 4500 rpm
2008-present
Buick Lucerne Super
292 hp (218 kW) @ 6300 rpm
288 lbft (390 Nm) @ 4500 rpm LD8
The LD8 (VIN “Y”) is a transverse V8 for front-wheel drive cars. Introduced in 1994, it is designed to provide more torque than the high-revving L37. The LD8 code has been used on all torque-tuned transverse Northstars, even as the exact engine specifications evolved. Compression ratio is 10:1.
The 1998 revision is quieter than previous Northstar engines, due to hydraulic engine mounts, and performs better due to a tuned intake system.
Most LD8 Northstars are rated at 275 hp (205 kW) and 300 lbft (407 Nm).
Year
Model
Power
Torque
1994
Cadillac Eldorado
270 hp (201 kW)
300 lbft (407 Nm)
19952001
Cadillac Eldorado
275 hp (205 kW) @ 5750 rpm
300 lbft (407 Nm)
2002
Cadillac Eldorado
275 hp (205 kW) @ 5600 rpm
300 lbft (407 Nm) @ 4000 rpm
1994
Cadillac Seville SLS
270 hp (201 kW)
300 lbft (407 Nm)
19952001
Cadillac Seville SLS
275 hp (205 kW)
300 lbft (407 Nm)
20022004
Cadillac Seville SLS
275 hp (205 kW)
300 lbft (407 Nm)
1994
Cadillac DeVille Concours
270 hp (201 kW)
300 lbft (407 Nm)
1995
Cadillac DeVille Concours
275 hp (205 kW) @ 5750 rpm
300 lbft (407 Nm)
19962001
Cadillac DeVille
275 hp (205 kW) @ 5750 rpm
300 lbft (407 Nm) @ 4000 rpm
20022005
Cadillac DeVille
275 hp (205 kW) @ 5600 rpm
300 lbft (407 Nm) @ 4000 rpm
2006resent
Cadillac DTS
275 hp (205 kW) @ 6000 rpm
295 lbft (400 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
20042005
Pontiac Bonneville GXP
275 hp (205 kW) @ 5600 rpm
300 lbft (407 Nm) @ 4000 rpm
20062007
Buick Lucerne CXS
275 hp (205 kW) @ 6000 rpm
295 lbft (400 Nm) @ 4400 rpm LH2
The Northstar was designed originally for transverse front-wheel drive applications. It was modified substantially in 2004 for longitudinal rear- and all-wheel drive use in the SRX and XLR, as well as receiving continuously variable valve timing on both intake and exhaust sides. The RWD (LH2) Northstar produces 320 hp (239 kW) and 315 lbft (427 Nm). An increased compression ratio of 10.5:1 enables most of the increase in power from the L37 and LD8 Northstars.
Year
Model
Power
Torque
20042009
Cadillac SRX
320 hp (239 kW) @ 6400 rpm
315 lbft (427 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
20042009
Cadillac XLR
320 hp (239 kW) @ 6400 rpm
310 lbft (420 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
2004resent
Cadillac STS
320 hp (239 kW) @ 6400 rpm
315 lbft (427 Nm) @ 4400 rpm Supercharged LC3
A 4.4 L (266 cu in) supercharged Northstar is used in the 2006 Cadillac STS-V and Cadillac XLR-V. The bore was reduced for increased strength and improved head gasket sealing. Variable valve timing is used on both the intake and exhaust sides. The STS-V engine produces 469 hp (350 kW) at 6400 rpm and 439 lbft (595 Nm) at 3900 rpm with 9:1 compression and the XLR-V engine produces 443 hp (330 kW) at 6400 rpm and 414 lbft (561 Nm) at 3900 rpm.
Year
Model
Power
Torque
20062009
Cadillac STS-V
469 hp (350 kW) @ 6400 rpm
439 lbft (595 Nm) @ 3900 rpm
20062009
Cadillac XLR-V
443 hp (330 kW) @ 6400 rpm
414 lbft (561 Nm) @ 3900 rpm L47
A L47 inside an Aurora’s engine bay
The L47 Aurora engine was a special V8 designed for the Oldsmobile Aurora, based on the Northstar engine. It is a DOHC 3,995 cc (3.995 L; 243.8 cu in) V8 which produced 250 horsepower (186 kW) and 260 ftlb (353 Nm) of torque. The bore is 87 mm (3.4 in) and the stroke is 84 mm (3.3 in). The L47 has a 10.3:1 compression ratio and uses premium fuel.
An early version or prototype of this engine was used in the 2nd generation Oldsmobile Aerotech.
Although most of the Northstar’s features, including the coolant loss system, remained intact, the decreased bore increased weight unacceptably. To reduce it, Oldsmobile used a one-piece glass-filled thermoplastic intake manifold and simplified AC Rochester sequential fuel injection. A new die-cast structural aluminum oil pan incorporated baffling to reduce oil starvation in hard driving. A starter interlock prevents the starter from engaging if the quiet L47 is already running.
A highly modified 650 hp (485 kW) version of this engine was used by General Motors racing division initially for Indy Racing League competition starting in 1995, then was later used in the Cadillac Northstar LMP program in 2000. Both engines retained the 4.0 L capacity, but the Northstar LMP version was twin-turbocharged.
The Aurora was also used in the Shelby Series 1 car.
The Aurora engine was introduced in 1994 for the 1995 model year, and General Motors has not used this engine since the demise of the marque in 2004.
Year
Model
Power
Torque
19952003
Oldsmobile Aurora
250 hp (186 kW) @ 5600 rpm
260 lbft (353 Nm) @ 4400 rpm LX5 (Shortstar)
A “Shortstar” LX5 inside an Intrigue’s engine bay
The LX5 V6 is a DOHC engine from Oldsmobile, introduced in 1999 with the Oldsmobile Intrigue. It was produced by the Premium engine group at GM and was thus called the Premium V6, or PV6, while it was being developed. It is based on the L47 Aurora V8, which is itself based on the Northstar engine, so engineers called it the Short North, though Oldsmobile fans have taken to calling it the Shortstar.
It is not a simple cut-down V8. Although it has a 90 vee-angle like the Northstar and Aurora, the engine block was engineered from scratch, so bore centers are different. It has chain-driven dual overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder, but is an even-firing design with a split-pin crankshaft similar to the modern GM 3800 engines. The LX5 displaced 3,473 cc (3.473 L; 211.9 cu in) and produced 215 hp (160 kW) @ 5,600 rpm and 230 ftlb (312 Nm) @ 4,400 rpm. Bore is 89.5 mm (3.52 in) and stroke is 92 mm (3.6 in). Compression ratio is 9.3:1.
The cost of building this engine was high, and it was not used in many vehicles. It was said at the time that a family of premium V6s would follow, with displacements ranging from 3.3 L to 3.7 L, but only the LX5 was ever produced.
The LX5 was entirely different from any other V6 in the GM inventory – the only other DOHC V6 engines offered by GM were the Chevrolet Twin Dual Cam produced from 1991-1997 and the Cadillac/Holden HFV6 available from 2004 to the present day. These three designs are completely unrelated and oddly enough leave two gaps in 1998 and 2003 where no DOHC V6 was available from GM. This contrasts starkly with competitors practices of evolving engineering over multiple, continuously improving designs.
As with the Aurora V8, production stopped with the demise of Oldsmobile.
Year
Model
Power
Torque
19992002
Oldsmobile Intrigue
215 hp (160 kW) @ 5600 rpm
230 lbft (312 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
20012002
Oldsmobile Aurora
215 hp (160 kW) @ 5600 rpm
230 lbft (312 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
The 3.5L LX5 was on the Ward’s 10 Best Engines list for 1999 and 2000. See also
GM 60-degree DOHC V6 engine
GM High Feature engine
Cadillac V8 engine
GM Ultra Engine
List of GM engines Notes
^ http://74.125.47.132/search?q=cache:6nj6yREp_4wJ:www.ehow.com/facts_5467367_northstar-engine-information.html+LT5+northstar&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
^ Weitzman, Larry (2001).The Aurora by Oldsmobile (2001), Better in every respect. Autochannel. Retrieved on June 28, 2009. References
Frank Markus. “1993 Technical Highlights”. Car and Driver (October 1992): 5960.
“Technical Highlights”. Car and Driver (October 1993): 115.
Joel D. Pietrangelo. “Northstar is heart of Allante re-do for ‘93 – V-8 engine, General Motors’ Cadillac Motor Car Div.’s new model roadster”. Ward’s Auto World (February 1992). External links
Northstar engine – official website
Technical article from AutoSpeed
Ward’s article
GM Premium V Performance Discussion Forums Categories: Cadillac engines | GM engines | Automotive technology tradenamesHidden categories: All articles with specifically-marked weasel-worded phrases | Articles with specifically-marked weasel-worded phrases from September 2008
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